Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
